Wednesday, February 3, 2010
Surfing out front!
Surfing out front!!!
Life is good! its crazy how you can have a crappy morning working and just get frustrated then go surf..... what?? what a concept... the baptism of surfing clears your whole mind and body out... I mean really trip out on that!
Just got a barrell after 2 hours surfing out front to end the session.
I felt just kinda lost and gettin white with out being in the sun. SO i went to check the waves at 12 thirty ish... WHAT THE *&%#(!????? Glassy firing left peelers... NO ONE OUT!!!!!
the catchin and surfin of waves is rad.... Boards are working good.
having beers when it rains is good too! Here is a video by Matt Wybenga of Russ Hennings and Myself in Indo..