Surfing out front!!!
Life is good! its crazy how you can have a crappy morning working and just get frustrated then go surf..... what?? what a concept... the baptism of surfing clears your whole mind and body out... I mean really trip out on that!
Just got a barrell after 2 hours surfing out front to end the session.
I felt just kinda lost and gettin white with out being in the sun. SO i went to check the waves at 12 thirty ish... WHAT THE *&%#(!????? Glassy firing left peelers... NO ONE OUT!!!!!
TRUE STORY.......
the catchin and surfin of waves is rad.... Boards are working good.
having beers when it rains is good too! Here is a video by Matt Wybenga of Russ Hennings and Myself in Indo..
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